| 1 | anyone know a fix for high wall heat pumps (on internal wall) to stop them overshooting the set temp?
two of mine i have to set 2-3 degrees colder when heating.
setting them on "auto" makes them keep swapping from cooling to heating and back again constantly.
my floor mount is fine. tweake - 2021-04-26 14:29:00 |
| 2 | ...setting them on "auto" makes them keep swapping from cooling to heating and back again constantly....yep, that's exactly how "auto" works.
Don't know how you know that they are heating too much (by 2-3 degrees).
So if you set the heat pumps on to "Heat"...and set say 24 degrees...how do you know the heat pumps are actually overshooting the set temp (and supplying 26-27 degrees)? |
| 3 | gettinggrey wrote:
...setting them on "auto" makes them keep swapping from cooling to heating and back again constantly....yep, that's exactly how "auto" works.
Don't know how you know that they are heating too much (by 2-3 degrees).
So if you set the heat pumps on to "Heat"...and set say 24 degrees...how do you know the heat pumps are actually overshooting the set temp (and supplying 26-27 degrees)? i have temp gauges measuring room temp. and when i say its "swapping from cooling to heating and back again constantly" its doing it every few minutes, not the normal a few times a day that it should be doing, which is what the good one does.
because its over shooting the temp setting, it triggers itself to swap mode which is not how "auto" works. tweake - 2021-04-26 16:08:00 |
| 4 | Is your pipe hole sealed?
But fairly common i find, i always say set to what's comfortable, and ignore the number.
If you want to get carried away, and get best possible sensing, we often used to remove sensor from its current location, and move it up to center of return air inlet, below filters. (often means cut and extend wires, and drilling a small hole to feed it thru, but we found it was worth it(and customers we did it for, liked improved result).
Also - is airflow bouncing off something, and being short cycled back to unit/sensor? Edited by gpg58 at 4:18 pm, Mon 26 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-26 16:13:00 |
| 5 | pipe hole is sealed.
not short cycling directly but its a small room.
while the number is not that important because they are so different for heating and cooling, its causing the change in mode all the time.
these run a 2c differential. so set at 23 it has to hit 25 before it turns to cooling, and then has to hit 21 for it to change to heating. i have toyed with the idea of fitting a wall controller, which has the temp sensor in it. tweake - 2021-04-26 16:27:00 |
| 6 | Is it badly oversized for room? common issue if so(many units have minimum run times, once a cycle is started, and only check temp once a minute or 2, then decide after that, to ramp up or down a stage, then check again in another minute or 2, before dropping next to stage, so very easy to overshoot if too big). Worse if they see a rapid overshoot, it can trigger going to full power on opposite cycle, if on auto, as it try's hard to get room temp under control.
We have also extended sensor wires, out to a small housing mounted on wall, on a couple of jobs. (always solder joints) Edited by gpg58 at 4:40 pm, Mon 26 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-26 16:31:00 |
| 7 | that might explain it if they don't check for a while.
they are a tad oversized imho, however getting small ones is difficult. the other thing i have noticed, but need to double check, is that in one of the manuals it mentions a minimum install height of 2.5 meters. tweake - 2021-04-26 16:40:00 |
| 8 | tweake wrote:
that might explain it if they don't check for a while.
they are a tad oversized imho, however getting small ones is difficult. the other thing i have noticed, but need to double check, is that in one of the manuals it mentions a minimum install height of 2.5 meters. What brand, we mounted 100's of toshiba at 150mm off floor, but unplugged swing louver and fixed air direction, this was mostly before they had floor consuls, but imo, for heating(warm air rises, and is much harder to force downwards), it works vastly better than those consuls still, due to better air throw distance capability (all 3 of my highwalls are).
Imo mounting too close to ceiling is worst choice(for heating), due to return air being supplied with the hottest air in the room, which is a very poor representation of actual room temp. Have you tried setting a low to medium fan speed, so as to limit its maximum output? Edited by gpg58 at 4:54 pm, Mon 26 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-26 16:45:00 |
| 9 | these are all Panasonics.
no issue with the floor console. just wondering if they might be tuned to account for higher walls ie higher temps at the ceiling than at person height. tweake - 2021-04-26 16:56:00 |
| 10 | gpg58 wrote:
Have you tried setting a low to medium fan speed, so as to limit its maximum output?
bedroom one runs on low due to the noise and that at full fan it blows the curtains around. tweake - 2021-04-26 16:58:00 |
| 11 | Yes some are set to account for being up high, and the hotter air up there.
Some (very few i know about) had a temperature offset via a switch, possibly some may have one in settings somewhere, you could ask their warranty manager (think Toshibas old one - Mark N, works for Panasonic in Dunedin now) Edited by gpg58 at 5:21 pm, Mon 26 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-26 17:17:00 |
| 12 | tweake wrote:
anyone know a fix for high wall heat pumps (on internal wall) to stop them overshooting the set temp?
two of mine i have to set 2-3 degrees colder when heating.
setting them on "auto" makes them keep swapping from cooling to heating and back again constantly.
my floor mount is fine. set it to 'heat', and the FAN on 'auto', with the vanes pointing to the ground |
| 13 | wine-o-clock wrote:
set it to 'heat', and the FAN on 'auto', with the vanes pointing to the ground
yes, but it would be a lot nicer to have it on auto so when the house warms up in the sun it switches over to aircon. tweake - 2021-04-26 21:09:00 |
| 14 | tweake wrote:
yes, but it would be a lot nicer to have it on auto so when the house warms up in the sun it switches over to aircon. That wouldn't be an efficient way to operate a heat pump. Far better to set it on heat or cold according to the season to maintain the required temperature. Edited by inatiz at 12:36 pm, Tue 27 Apr inatiz - 2021-04-27 12:32:00 |
| 15 | inatiz wrote:
That wouldn't be an efficient way to operate a heat pump. Far better to set it on heat or cold according to the season to maintain the required temperature.
its not that simple.
if you set it to heat (or cold) the heat pump will maintain the temp fairly precisely. eg if the temp drops 0.5 degrees it turns on and heats it back up to set temp. this causes a fair bit of short cycling which can be inefficient.
however on auto, the temp has to drop 2 degrees before it turns back on. this means it doesn't short cycle so much and operates more efficiently. tweake - 2021-04-27 16:34:00 |
| 16 | tweake wrote:
its not that simple.
if you set it to heat (or cold) the heat pump will maintain the temp fairly precisely. eg if the temp drops 0.5 degrees it turns on and heats it back up to set temp. this causes a fair bit of short cycling which can be inefficient.
however on auto, the temp has to drop 2 degrees before it turns back on. this means it doesn't short cycle so much and operates more efficiently. I have heard that it uses more energy on auto mode.
https://www.heatpumpcentral.co.nz/whats-the-best-way-to-run-
my-heat-pump inatiz - 2021-04-28 10:01:00 |
| 17 | inatiz wrote:
I have heard that it uses more energy on auto mode.
https://www.heatpumpcentral.co.nz/whats-the-best-way-to-run-
my-heat-pump "Avoid using the 'Auto' mode - use the 'Heating' mode. In 'Auto' mode, the heat pump tries to maintain the set temperature by constantly changing between heating and cooling, as the room temperature fluctuates. This can waste a lot of energy." thats not quite right.
room temp should not fluctuate so much that it constantly bounces between heating and cooling, unless the fluctuation is caused by the heat pump itself ie overshooting the temp.
you would have to have an uninsulated drafty house and be in highly variable climate for it to be an issue. whats more typical is its on heating in the morning. house heats up in the sun. heat pump turns off for many hours. then heat pump turns on to cooling for a while. as sun goes down it turns off. house cools down and then it changes back to heating for the evening.
nz climate typically doesn't have big temp swings. ie its not below freezing at night then above 40 during the day. when we start getting into heating season, it does very little cooling during the day. what they are really saying is to be unconformable because its slightly cheaper, which is such a typical kiwi attitude to housing. tweake - 2021-04-28 10:29:00 |
