| 1 | We have just had a Fujitisu outdoor heat pump unit fail ( fan not turning .)
It is 11 years old and the outside unit is quite rusted out at the bottom of the unit .( we are exposed to salt-laden southerly winds at times though not right beside the sea - we can see the sea )
We have been told that you can't just buy a new `outdoor' unit as they come as a pair - is this correct ?
Also we have been advised its not worth repairing due to the rust
Is it worth even bothering with another heat pump in this location if they only last 10 yrs ? footdr - 2021-04-20 15:18:00 |
| 2 | Sounds like its past its best buy date , time for a new unit in a better protected location martin11 - 2021-04-20 16:15:00 |
| 3 | Most brands have rules about adverse environment's for warranty purposes.
Basically if you want it to last longer, it needs pulling apart while new, and spraying with an approved protective coating.
You can also help them last, if you get them serviced each year, assuming your service person does a proper job, and washes the unit out.
Rusting out bases are often as a result of dirt build up in the bottom, sitting there always damp, or unit not raised off ground at least 100mm on blocks etc, and dirt and leaves building up under it, touching base and so doing the same.
Some brands are worse than others for rusting though(aux etc are real junk), personally i found Toshiba were the best for surviving anywhere, even without extra protection, though generally we would spray them now, if basically over the road from sea or similarly close.
Toshiba can also often sell just a replacement unit(indoor or outdoor), as the comms signals do not change between models, or even sizes(almost any mismatched models and sizes, work happily with any other- same gas type ones).
But personally found fujitsu mismatched models will not work, even if same size. But you say fan stopped, "most" times a simple fan motor change will get it going again. But killing pc board when it died, is also possible.
My 2 oldest outdoor units here (i have 4 Toshiba systems, all mismatches) are at least 12 years old, and have next to no rust in them(200-250m thru pine forest to beach). Edited by gpg58 at 6:28 pm, Tue 20 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-20 18:20:00 |
| 4 | Good question. I've had mine for almost 5 years and the cooling function suddenly stopped working properly (still cools a bit but nowhere near its full function). Had it serviced but they could find no obvious fault. Heating & other functions still fine. They said 5 years wasn't old at all...I think 8-10 years you'd be expecting problems and potentially a replacement. But 11 years is really up there and you probably should expect to replace. I'm a bit p!ssed off about mine - just outside of warranty and I need air con for next summer so will have to replace by then. |
| 5 | Mine lasted 5 years, the inside unit. I am not replacing it. I can use a lot of electricity with a one bar heater which is sufficient for my needs.
In some cases heat pumps are NOT at all economic.
And I have done all the calculations. lilyfield - 2021-04-20 19:38:00 |
| 6 | cameron-albany wrote:
Good question. I've had mine for almost 5 years and the cooling function suddenly stopped working properly (still cools a bit but nowhere near its full function). Had it serviced but they could find no obvious fault. Heating & other functions still fine. They said 5 years wasn't old at all...I think 8-10 years you'd be expecting problems and potentially a replacement. But 11 years is really up there and you probably should expect to replace. I'm a bit p!ssed off about mine - just outside of warranty and I need air con for next summer so will have to replace by then. Could be just short of gas.
Hard to tell without recovering the charge and seeing its weight, then refilling to factory spec.
In my experience, a high percentage of faults are leaking flare joints, and some gas has been lost.
Not saying yours is.
But if it runs fine, and having checked reversing valve is changing over, and room temperature sensor is fine, next thing i would check would be gas charge, simply to rule it out before going further.
Have seen a few sticking reversing valves in recent years(not fully changing over), usually noisy when compressor ramped up if stuck. gpg58 - 2021-04-20 20:03:00 |
| 7 | Panasonic heat pumps can have some components galvanised to make them last longer.
Could ask the 'heat pump' installers if they have any serviceable used heat pumps that have been taken out of renovated wealthy businesses/ offices who always have the latest and most recent heat pumps installed. serf407 - 2021-04-20 23:27:00 |
| 8 | Could have a little roof over the top of the heat pump, and give it a rinse off with the hose every now and then? tygertung - 2021-04-21 09:00:00 |
| 9 | Thanks for the help /suggestions- we did clean it regularly - we will just have to get another -its a pity you can't get stainless steel outdoor units though . footdr - 2021-04-21 09:14:00 |
| 10 | gpg58 wrote:
Could be just short of gas.
Hard to tell without recovering the charge and seeing its weight, then refilling to factory spec.
In my experience, a high percentage of faults are leaking flare joints, and some gas has been lost.
Not saying yours is.
But if it runs fine, and having checked reversing valve is changing over, and room temperature sensor is fine, next thing i would check would be gas charge, simply to rule it out before going further.
Have seen a few sticking reversing valves in recent years(not fully changing over), usually noisy when compressor ramped up if stuck. thanks for the tips! They apparently really did check everything, and put in a bit of gas in case, but I will save your above tips in case. The fan is running fine, no noise etc. I was told the likely problem could be contaminated refrigerant. I didn't fancy going down that path if it turned out not to be. Would rather spend $2000+ on a new one than $1000++ on endless fault detection IYKWIM. |
| 11 | tygertung wrote:
Could have a little roof over the top of the heat pump, and give it a rinse off with the hose every now and then?
We recently had one put in and I asked the installer whether I should protect it from the weather. He said that they are made to be in the elements and that the rain will wash any dust off it. We are a long way from sea air though. apollo11 - 2021-04-21 18:26:00 |
| 12 | gpg58 wrote:
Could be just short of gas.
Hard to tell without recovering the charge and seeing its weight, then refilling to factory spec.
shouldn't you be able to tell from the pressures and temps generated? tweake - 2021-04-21 18:35:00 |
| 13 | apollo11 wrote:
We recently had one put in and I asked the installer whether I should protect it from the weather. He said that they are made to be in the elements and that the rain will wash any dust off it. We are a long way from sea air though. My outdoor unit is on my deck by my front door. Out of the weather. I was limited to where my indoor unit could go and this was the easiest option. joanie04 - 2021-04-21 19:54:00 |
| 14 | tweake wrote:
shouldn't you be able to tell from the pressures and temps generated? Yes an no. If very short it can be obvious from those(but still not always, blockages can seem like short - including crushed pipes), but if only lost part charge not so easy.
If they still all had both an actual discharge and suction connection like the old days, testing would be easier. imo the now common only one access port, in the connecting pipework is not ideal. In winter when heating in frosts, a give away can be evaporator(outdoor) coil is only "EVER" freezing part of coil, as opposed to frost slowly building up to a complete cover, between defrosts, and will have reduced peak output, but at a causal feel perhaps seem ok.
And in warmer weather testing, heat output may be fine, due to the higher evap temp.
But sure if you know the brand well, and are familiar with its usual temps and pressures, under the current conditions its working in, they will definitely be a good indicator.
But other brands and models can "usually" run at different ones. An example - a unit running at 600 - 650psi at max in warm weather, should have 550 in winter at maximum ramped up, But some brands seem to only ever reach 480-500, so it may seem ok when its actually low, to those not familiar with unit.
Some hate using gauges too, and rarely check with them, due to losing a bit of gas every-time even if careful - and dodging freezer burnt fingers ;-) . Edited by gpg58 at 8:21 pm, Wed 21 Apr gpg58 - 2021-04-21 20:06:00 |
| 15 | I would just replace as if issues are there at 10 years then any fix is probably going to be temporary. Installing a new one will be easy as the power and holes are already done and a new one will surely be more efficient than a 10 year old one saving a bit on a monthly basis as well. Just my 10c worth. 3tomany - 2021-04-22 11:38:00 |
| 16 | Our Toshiba Inverter Heat Pump was still going strong after 17 years although the fan was not as quiet as it used to be. |
