Does a 5.5kw heatpump meet new healthy homes standard? I know this also depends on size of living room ... of the top of my head I think the room would be around 30m2

kungfu3 - 2020-11-28 20:15:00

There's a lot more information than that needed.
Try using Tenancy Services' heating tool, at https://www.tenancy.govt.nz/heating-tool/

luteba - 2020-11-28 20:20:00

kungfu3 wrote:

Does a 5.5kw heatpump meet new healthy homes standard? I know this also depends on size of living room ... of the top of my head I think the room would be around 30m2

Depends if the house is open plan

catwoman1974 - 2020-11-29 16:42:00

the company who are installing ours recommended the size.

cave-man22 - 2020-11-29 19:25:00

Our 5-5 ke is useless in our 30m2 lounge dinner with double glazing , insulation and west facing in Wellington. Your mileage may vary

lissie - 2020-11-29 20:07:00

We have an 8kw floor mounted heat pump in about a 80 m2 room and it heats it very easily. It only has 1982 wall insulation and single glazing with aluminium windows, so 5.5kw should be ample I would have thought, but it depends on the brand of the heat pump I think. We have a Fujitsu and are in Christchurch, so not terribly warm, but not terribly cold either.

tygertung - 2020-11-30 06:28:00

tygertung wrote:

...so 5.5kw should be ample I would have thought, but it depends on the brand of the heat pump I think. ....

With a potential $4k penalty for not meeting the HHS you actually want to 'know'.

desi1969 - 2020-11-30 11:40:00

Oversized is better for efficiency

loose.unit8 - 2020-11-30 12:54:00

desi1969 wrote:

With a potential $4k penalty for not meeting the HHS you actually want to 'know'.

So use the calculator linked to above.

tygertung - 2020-11-30 13:32:00

tygertung wrote:

So use the calculator linked to above.

Agreed - post Number 2 was great.
Nice and simple and no 'guessing'.
Love those factual posts.

desi1969 - 2020-11-30 13:40:00

loose.unit8 wrote:

Oversized is better for efficiency

no. problem of oversizing is they run full noise then shut off. best efficiency is when they get near target temp and slow down, then constantly run at slow speed.
also oversizing sucks for air con as it shuts off before much dehumidification is done.
sizing needs to be correct for them to run properly.

tweake - 2020-11-30 19:18:00

tweake wrote:

no. problem of oversizing is they run full noise then shut off. best efficiency is when they get near target temp and slow down, then constantly run at slow speed.
also oversizing sucks for air con as it shuts off before much dehumidification is done.
sizing needs to be correct for them to run properly.

Hmm interesting, thanks

loose.unit8 - 2020-12-01 10:24:00

Best to go through the tool that Luteba has posted.
Needs a lot of information to feed it. You have to measure up all your windows and walls.

From what I understand, it includes the entire enclosed area. So total area will include the Dining, Kitchen, etc, if it is adjoining and open to the Living area.

Property manager went through and got an external assessor in to do it on my behalf (complimentary, paid for by the PM)

Discovered that the Heat Pump the builder installed Did Not meet the healthy home requirements (as laid out as a condition of the Sales and Purchase agreement). Now I'm busy trying to chase the builder up.

Edited by cognition at 10:54 am, Tue 1 Dec

cognition - 2020-12-01 10:46:00

loose.unit8 wrote:

Hmm interesting, thanks

actually in a way you where sort of right but not anything to do with efficiency.

if i remember right the calc used doesn't take into account the house air leakage rates. so in older homes (which leak more air) your better to oversize it a bit because the calc is undersizing it.
in some of the usa calcs they use a guesstimated figure for air leakage depending on style and age of the house. as the nz govt totally ignore the issue they simply bypass that in the calc.

how much to oversize i'm not sure on.
a low leakage newer home its like having 20% less insulation.
older homes its like having 60% less insulation.

Edited by tweake at 6:36 pm, Tue 1 Dec

tweake - 2020-12-01 18:35:00

As post 2 says, this is a requirement by law, no matter what builders and heat pump installers say. You measure every wall in your lounge(WxH) and any adjoining areas not closed off by a door and all glass areas. You input all this into the calculator and it will tell you the size heatpump you need.Open fireplaces do not count. You have to install a fixed thermostatically controlled heating device to the required KW.

blueviking - 2020-12-01 21:22:00

As usual tweake is commenting on something he knows nothing about. The calculator adjusts on the year the house was built,(minimum insulation requirements for the year) the insulation(ceiling, wall and underfloor) and whether windows are double glazed or not.

blueviking - 2020-12-01 21:28:00

The new legislation is you have to supply all new tenants with a 7 page document explaining all the healthy homes requirements met or not met in your rental property, explaining why they are not met. Rangehoods venting to the outside and bathroom extractor fans venting to the outside with minimal l/p/s.No of smoke alarms in the house.Gmb's installed.

blueviking - 2020-12-01 21:40:00

blueviking wrote:

The new legislation is you have to supply all new tenants with a 7 page document explaining all the healthy homes requirements met or not met in your rental property, explaining why they are not met. Rangehoods venting to the outside and bathroom extractor fans venting to the outside with minimal l/p/s.No of smoke alarms in the house.Gmb's installed.

Sounds like at least an extra $20pw in rent to cover that paper work.

pcle - 2020-12-02 08:28:00

How would you get on completing this paper work with an 8 year old, fully Clean Air compliant Masport log-burner?
A log burner has got no thermostat and the heat output depends on the quantity, & quality of firewood used.

leisurecraft - 2020-12-02 12:33:00

Go to the website that luteba put up, the are exclusions and other details. Just work it out.

msigg - 2020-12-02 17:08:00

blueviking wrote:

As usual tweake is commenting on something he knows nothing about. The calculator adjusts on the year the house was built,(minimum insulation requirements for the year) the insulation(ceiling, wall and underfloor) and whether windows are double glazed or not.

burn lol

i just had a quick look as i ran through a couple of the calculators 1-2 years ago. the look is different and i see one question different (that i can recall). it may have been changed or i just can't remember.
one of the calcs showed the actual formula used and that had air flow calcs basically zero'ed out.

tweake - 2020-12-02 17:57:00

Leisure, If you can provide the paperwork that states the output in KW, then there is an exemption, as long as the tnt uses it. You may or may not be required to supply all wood(I can see this coming in in the future)So best to measure your room and install the smallest heatpump allowable.Probably about the same price as supplying somewhere to store their firewood to keep dry.

blueviking - 2020-12-04 07:38:00

And just for fun, all you landlords need to read this...
https://www.tenancy.govt.nz/about-tenancy-services/news/resi
dential-tenancies-amendment-act-2020-now-in-force/
My boss went to a seminar on it. I had a quick look through and can't find a lot in favour of a landlord. Although the Gummint owned houses have a 2yr exemption.

blueviking - 2020-12-04 07:45:00

Thanks Blueviking. There is already a shed for the dry storage of firewood. I will look into getting an exemption. This clean-air approved log burner is an efficient heating source and heats the lounge (and the entire house) better than any heat pump. It would be madness, having to replace it with a heat pump.

leisurecraft - 2020-12-04 13:47:00