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Wifi woes

#Post
51
zyx2004 wrote:

I currently have a NetGear fibre router provided by Trustpower. What do you suggest as a better model?

One with an external antennae. I have an old TP Link TL-WR642G which came out in 2007 and it has really good range. Get a good signal in my garage which is a fair distance away and the signal has to go through a few walls too.

I also have a Netcom wifi router, but the signal is much weaker. It only has an internal antennae.

The worst was the Huawai 4G modem's wifi which I stopped using almost straight away as it was really weak. Was getting really slow performance on my TV's computer, so watching videos online was a pretty much no-go.

I'd just get a wifi router and plug that into your modem and just turn off the wifi on your modem.

tygertung - 2021-04-11 18:59:00
52

https://www.trademe.co.nz/computers/networking-modems/router
s-firewalls/listing-3043214100.htm?rsqid=97919bbe7c804d22908
243fc3362f752-001

That one has two antannae and is $15

This one also has two and is only $1

https://www.trademe.co.nz/computers/networking-modems/wirele
ss-networking/routers/listing-3043030885.htm?rsqid=bfd2c95a9
5264f8ea746c37100af6f9c-003

There are heaps of TP link routers on there and they are real cheap.

tygertung - 2021-04-11 19:04:00
53
gyrogearloose wrote:

Fuses and circuit breakers will be rated at a continuous draw because they are thermal or timed. You could instantaneously draw more current (such as in-rush) and they might not pop. Circuit breakers could have a 30% tolerance, and in an older rental some fool might have put in a bigger fuse wire or .22 casing.

Aside from someone putting a higher rated fuse in it than the standard fixed 10A, yeah sure, a device might draw a bit more than that -for a very brief time- at it's startup demand draw but in normal circumstances I doubt you'd get any kind of sustained 20A draw a spyware seemed to suggest.

nice_lady - 2021-04-11 19:34:00
54

You could. In modern houses it appears they do install 20A circuit breakers and have up to six outlets on the one breaker. Cable runs have to be 4 mm though.

spyware - 2021-04-11 19:41:00
55

Yeah ok but the OP is in an old house they say. And with these modern 20A circuit breakers are the wall sockets etc rated that high? Because traditionally they're rated at 10A. And your average home use appliance wouldn't be rated higher than that anyway.

nice_lady - 2021-04-11 21:11:00
56
tygertung wrote:

There are heaps of TP link routers on there and they are real cheap.

Many of the listings don't specify whether they're ADSL or fibre routers.

Edited by zyx2004 at 11:02 pm, Sun 11 Apr

zyx2004 - 2021-04-11 23:01:00
57

You don't want a modem, just a router. You only want one which can do a network. You plug it into your modem to get the internet into it.

tygertung - 2021-04-11 23:24:00
58

So if I go out and buy a new fibre modem/router with *antennas*, then it's going to work better than the antenna-less NetComm NF18ACV router supplied by Trustpower? Even if it sits on the fridge?

Edited by zyx2004 at 1:06 am, Mon 12 Apr

zyx2004 - 2021-04-12 01:00:00
59

Maybe, maybe not. Get a powerline extender.

nice_lady - 2021-04-12 05:19:00
60

I would say there is an extremely high chance that it will work better than the trustpower one. And you should be easily be able to get one for cheap as.

I can't see that the fridge is going to be causing many issues. It isn't going to be putting out any interferance, as all it has is a switch and an induction motor in the compressor. Everything is extremely well shielded, just by the nature of a fridge's construction.

And the shaddowing effect of a fridge isn't going to be that big I wouldn't have thought. You will want to see if you can get the router about 400mm off the top of the fridge most likely.

It is going to be cheaper just to get one of those cheap routers and try it out.

tygertung - 2021-04-12 07:05:00
61

Note:

Trustpower config is IPoE (DHCP client) with vlan tag=10 on the WAN. So a Vodafone firmware Huawei would work in reset state out of box. A Spark firmware one is configured differently.

Edited by spyware at 10:10 am, Mon 12 Apr

spyware - 2021-04-12 10:10:00
62

Eliminating whether problem is present on one or other wifi band, i.e., 2.4 or 5 GHz, is important.

spyware - 2021-04-12 10:14:00
63
nice_lady wrote:

Yeah ok but the OP is in an old house they say. And with these modern 20A circuit breakers are the wall sockets etc rated that high? Because traditionally they're rated at 10A. And your average home use appliance wouldn't be rated higher than that anyway.

The wiring has to be to but not sure about the outlets, I thought outlets were only 10 or 16A.

spyware - 2021-04-12 10:16:00
64

Very much agree with the suggestion of using a wifi scanner app. Theres plenty of free ones. Just do it - that way you can see what channel is best and what the wifi 'distribution' is actually like now, and if/when you move your router a little bit, (or a lot).

nice_lady - 2021-04-12 10:44:00
65

2.4 GHz should have better signal penetration than 5 GHz

tygertung - 2021-04-12 15:59:00
66

OK, I now have the NetComm router sitting on a cupboard in the living room with a long extension power cord from the kitchen and a long Ethernet cable from the ONT in the kitchen. The wifi signal does seem to have improved, whether due to moving the router away from any possible fridge interference or by placing the router in a more "central" location (or both). I think it will now be a case of using plastic cable-clips to affix the two cables to the skirting boards without being too conspicuous....

zyx2004 - 2021-04-12 17:47:00
67

Happy days, and maybe just keep an eye out for a extra cheap router on TM. I have one with one antennae, but surely two should be even better?

tygertung - 2021-04-12 19:25:00
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