Welcome to the Coin Club. We are an assortment of newbies and oldbies, amateurs and experts with questions and answers for oldbies and newbies, amateurs and experts in coin collecting, also known as numismatics. Whether you are just getting started, have been collecting for years or have simply found some old coins about the place that you’d like to sell, this is the place to ask your questions.

No one has all the answers, and you may get five differing answers to the same question, yet each may be right in a manner of speaking, especially if opinions are involved. Opinions often vary. If you receive no answer to your query within 48 hours, please ask again.

echoriath - 2018-10-22 22:14:00

banjo2002 wrote:

I recently found over $2000 of old banknotes & coins under the lino when I was clearing out mothers home
What do I do with it as all are old
Cheers

Definitely would help to have some photos. How old is "old"?

Take the best pix you can and post them here. Do you have a camera, and are you decent at taking photos? The easy way with a good camera is to put it on Auto. If you are more motivated, look for a flower icon that is a setting called Macro. This is specifically for the purpose of taking close-up photos. Set the timer on 2 or 3 seconds to give you time to steady the camera once you press the shutter button. This process is easier with a tripod, though you can stabilise the camera yourself by holding the camera with both hands and placing your elbows on a flat surface above the coins.

It's also better to turn off the flash and shoot with natural sunlight. Cameras that cost more than $100 or so (and maybe some that are less) have a remarkable number of options for taking good pix, but the main point is that good pix of both sides of your coins generally = better advice. Good pix reveal the quality of coins, whether that quality be good or bad.

If using a phone, most of the same rules apply, but it's usually already set to auto. Still good to set the timer so that you can steady the camera. Shoot from a couple hundred millimeters away, but zoom in as close as you reasonably can.

echoriath - 2018-10-22 22:19:00

Can I ask the price of a coin on this site or do TM frown on it.

gobb - 2018-10-24 12:42:00

trele wrote:

I originally posted this message as a separate item in "Collectors' forum" but did not receive any responses. A member has suggested my posting may attract more attention if it is placed as a "Coin Club" item so here goes:

Can anyone assist in giving me an indication of the demand for the tokens shown in the attached pics and their likely value.
I have done quite a bit of research on Google but the values seem to have such a wide range that it is difficult for someone unfamiliar with this market to know where the truth lies. As an example, on Ebay the H. Somerville token is shown as ranging from USD175 to GBP15. Undoubtedly the condition of the tokens will have a major impact but to my untrained eye there was not a great deal of variation in the pics I examined. I would also imagine the auction "wish" reserves may be overly optimistic so if there is someone with practical, current experience your advice would be very welcome.

https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/885551406.jpg
https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/885551784.jpg
https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/885561130.jpg

Thanks

As promised, here's what I make of the other two:

The Palmer/Liverpool Arms (Sydney) one is rated fairly common (R2-3) in the recent Gray catalogue, with an estimated dealer's price of A$50+ in F-GF. That's about the grade yours is, so it would be a matter of testing the waters to see what the market thinks.

The Josephs/Tasmania Toll Gate penny is rated "most common" and is at the lower end of the condition scale so is likely worth only a few dollars.

translateltd - 2018-10-24 12:45:00

gobb wrote:

Can I ask the price of a coin on this site or do TM frown on it.

They mightn't be happy if you're querying someone's listing, but if you're just after a ballpark figure for something of your own, I don't see any harm. I've just replied to an earlier query from another member with indicative prices in any case :-)

translateltd - 2018-10-24 12:46:00

Thank you for the reply.I have a half sovereign and want to know a approx start price to sell on TM

gobb - 2018-10-24 14:12:00

gobb wrote:

Thank you for the reply.I have a half sovereign and want to know a approx start price to sell on TM

Half sovs contain just under 1/8 of an ounce of gold, or just under 4 grams, so pricing based on metal alone would be in the $220-$250 range. If you're prepared to gamble, you could find bidding goes higher if you start at $1, but that would have to be your decision - no guarantees or liability implied :-)

translateltd - 2018-10-24 15:27:00

My Father had a large coin collection dating back to the 1800's. I've been told its valuable, but without any knowledge its difficult to know how to value these or where to go if someone might be keen to buy it. Or more importantly who to trust. I'd be grateful of any advice.

molly37 - 2018-10-24 19:04:00

molly37 wrote:

My Father had a large coin collection dating back to the 1800's. I've been told its valuable, but without any knowledge its difficult to know how to value these or where to go if someone might be keen to buy it. Or more importantly who to trust. I'd be grateful of any advice.

Your best bet for selling is probably here on TradeMe, though that can depend on what you've actually got. We could provide some idea of potential values if you can narrow down what you have.

Approximately how many coins do you have?
What countries are they from?
What are the denominations and date ranges for each coin type from each country?
How (in what) and where have the coins been stored?

echoriath - 2018-10-25 21:29:00

echoriath wrote:

Your best bet for selling is probably here on TradeMe, though that can depend on what you've actually got. We could provide some idea of potential values if you can narrow down what you have.

Approximately how many coins do you have?
What countries are they from?
What are the denominations and date ranges for each coin type from each country?
How (in what) and where have the coins been stored?

thanks, its quite a mission cataloging them. We have approx 1000 coins, mostly nz, pennies, florins, shillings, commemorative decimal currency packs, one off royal visit sealed commemorative coins, last mint of imperial coins all sealed in packs, good selection of foreign coins, some are stored loose, others in John Bertrand books x 10, dating from 1816 - 1960's. Are there any in particular we should look out for that could be potentially valuable. It seems too difficult to list them here and we would prefer to take them to a reputable coin dealer. My worry is that we will pass on and our daughter will just throw them in the skip. ha ha, and possibly thats we they belong, who knows.

molly37 - 2018-10-27 07:56:00

You can always get the NZ Coin catalogue - costs about $17 inc postage. It will cover all the NZ sealed sets and coins.

Reputable coin dealer wise in Auckland have a look in yellow pages or google or on here! There's the Auckland Collectors Centre in Epsom and Eccles Coins at the bottom end of Queen St.

chrisr5 - 2018-10-27 15:47:00

chrisr5 wrote:

You can always get the NZ Coin catalogue - costs about $17 inc postage. It will cover all the NZ sealed sets and coins.

Reputable coin dealer wise in Auckland have a look in yellow pages or google or on here! There's the Auckland Collectors Centre in Epsom and Eccles Coins at the bottom end of Queen St.

DH did pop in there to the stamp dealer once, spoke briefly to Howard both quite rude and unprofessional. Eccles reviews on google not favourable either. hmmm.

Edited by molly37 at 5:48 pm, Sat 27 Oct

molly37 - 2018-10-27 17:38:00

As suggested this catalogue is the best way to go.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/antiques-collectables/coins/new-ze
aland-predecimal/sixpence/listing-1810694753.htm?rsqid=c6b24
c9d7098473cae2dbf1e0805d57f

wasgonna - 2018-10-27 18:14:00

wasgonna wrote:

As suggested this catalogue is the best way to go.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/antiques-collectables/coins/new-ze
aland-predecimal/sixpence/listing-1810694753.htm?rsqid=c6b24
c9d7098473cae2dbf1e0805d57f

Yep, already done. thanks

molly37 - 2018-10-27 18:19:00

Is the goal to sell the collection or to get an idea of value for the benefit of future generations in the family?

If your objective is just to determine the potential value of the collection, what's in that for a coin dealer? I would not ask them such a question unless I was prepared to pay them for their time and expertise.

There are some important differences where values are concerned. The overall formula for value is a function of rarity, condition and demand. Insurance replacement value is, strictly speaking, what most coin catalogs give you. A business that sells coins at those values is not likely to buy them for more than half the price in the catalog. The price difference is what keeps their doors open. Private sale prices can vary widely. Sale prices on TradeMe depend in no small part on the rarity of coins, as well as demand, but also on taking good pictures and offering accurate descriptions.

This is a handy side for coins from around the world:
www.ngccoin.com

echoriath - 2018-10-27 19:23:00

echoriath wrote:

Is the goal to sell the collection or to get an idea of value for the benefit of future generations in the family?

If your objective is just to determine the potential value of the collection, what's in that for a coin dealer? I would not ask them such a question unless I was prepared to pay them for their time and expertise.

There are some important differences where values are concerned. The overall formula for value is a function of rarity, condition and demand. Insurance replacement value is, strictly speaking, what most coin catalogs give you. A business that sells coins at those values is not likely to buy them for more than half the price in the catalog. The price difference is what keeps their doors open. Private sale prices can vary widely. Sale prices on TradeMe depend in no small part on the rarity of coins, as well as demand, but also on taking good pictures and offering accurate descriptions.

This is a handy side for coins from around the world:
www.ngccoin.com

Thanks for this useful information. We are aware that dealers are out to make money. And we are more than happy to pay for someones time. Our intention is i guess to see firstly if the collection has value, and then to determine if we offer this to one of the children (who at this stage none seem keen), or sell. Otherwise i'm concerned its likely to end up in the skip once we pop off in about 30 years all going well and possibly along with a little piece of history.

molly37 - 2018-10-27 19:38:00

So the other thing to consider is that anything (British or NZ) that's threepence or greater in terms of face value from 1946 or earlier contain 50% silver. British coins of similar denominations made prior to 1921 contain 92.5% silver (thus sterling). Australia dropped to 50% silver in 1946, then stopped all silver content after 1964.

(Someone more knowledgeable will correct me if I'm wrong on any of those.)

So in addition to numismatic/collectible value, you also have that silver content value. Of course, sovereigns take you into gold territory. There again, there is both numismatic and (effectively) bullion value.

Here's a handy site specifically for British coins:
http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk/values/index.html

echoriath - 2018-10-27 22:24:00

echoriath wrote:

So the other thing to consider is that anything (British or NZ) that's threepence or greater in terms of face value from 1946 or earlier contain 50% silver. British coins of similar denominations made prior to 1921 contain 92.5% silver (thus sterling). Australia dropped to 50% silver in 1946, then stopped all silver content after 1964.
(Someone more knowledgeable will correct me if I'm wrong on any of those.)
So in addition to numismatic/collectible value, you also have that silver content value. Of course, sovereigns take you into gold territory. There again, there is both numismatic and (effectively) bullion value.
Here's a handy site specifically for British coins:
http://www.coins-of-the-uk.co.uk/values/index.html

Pre 1920 for British .925 sterling coinage

gammoner - 2018-10-28 08:53:00

gammoner wrote:

Pre 1920 for British .925 sterling coinage

Up to and including, just to nitpick :-) 1920 coins can be both .925 and .500.

translateltd - 2018-10-28 09:13:00

If we are nitpicking; doesn't "including 1920" ordinarily mean that 1920 is included as .925 ? Pre-1920 would ordinarily mean that before 1920 all were .925.
Cheers Peter

funho1 - 2018-10-28 18:06:00

funho1 wrote:

If we are nitpicking; doesn't "including 1920" ordinarily mean that 1920 is included as .925 ? Pre-1920 would ordinarily mean that before 1920 all were .925.
Cheers Peter

Both finenesses need to be included, as the change was made part-way through the year. It's correct that pre-1920 is sterling and post-1920 is .500, so the year itself needs special mention if we're going to leave no room for ambiguity :-)

translateltd - 2018-10-28 19:59:00

translateltd wrote:

Both finenesses need to be included, as the change was made part-way through the year. It's correct that pre-1920 is sterling and post-1920 is .500, so the year itself needs special mention if we're going to leave no room for ambiguity :-)

I feel remorse coming on, well not for me but the other guy lol.
I have only ever paid at 50% silver rate for 1920 British coinage

gammoner - 2018-10-28 22:15:00

Remorse has gone now, as after a little research would have been a very small percentage of total for that 1 year.
1920 - In 1920, most British silver coins, the halfcrown, florin, and shilling, were debased to .500 fine, that is 50% silver, and 50% copper. Two denominations, the sixpence and threepence were struck in both alloys for 1920. All four maundy coins were still produced in sterling silver during 1920.

gammoner - 2018-10-28 22:22:00

Clarification achieved and nits picked without remorse.

echoriath - 2018-10-28 23:33:00

translateltd wrote:

As promised, here's what I make of the other two:

The Palmer/Liverpool Arms (Sydney) one is rated fairly common (R2-3) in the recent Gray catalogue, with an estimated dealer's price of A$50+ in F-GF. That's about the grade yours is, so it would be a matter of testing the waters to see what the market thinks.

The Josephs/Tasmania Toll Gate penny is rated "most common" and is at the lower end of the condition scale so is likely worth only a few dollars.

Thanks, translateltd. Much appreciate your time, effort and advice.

trele - 2018-10-29 10:37:00

echoriath wrote:

So the other thing to consider is that anything (British or NZ) that's threepence or greater in terms of face value from 1946 or earlier contain 50% silver. British coins of similar denominations made prior to 1921 contain 92.5% silver (thus sterling). Australia dropped to 50% silver in 1946, then stopped all silver content after 1964.

Except for the Australian 1966 50 cent coin which was 80% silver, but that only applies to that one year (it's also round, rather than dodecagonal).

Edited by justinian1 at 9:41 pm, Tue 30 Oct

justinian1 - 2018-10-30 21:41:00

justinian1 wrote:

Except for the Australian 1966 50 cent coin which was 80% silver, but that only applies to that one year (it's also round, rather than dodecagonal).

Thanks for that.

Long time, no see. Hope all is well.

echoriath - 2018-10-30 22:57:00

echoriath wrote:

Thanks for that.

Long time, no see. Hope all is well.

I've occasionally stuck my head in to see what's going on, but I've got two small children who have taken up a lot of of my time over the last four years!

justinian1 - 2018-10-31 11:26:00

twg1935 wrote:

Trade Me are withdrawing any listings of Armistice rolls till after the 11 November, at the request of Reserve Bank.

I asked Trade Me "Does your policy on these coins only apply until Armistice day, Nov. 11th?" Their reply was "No Paul, this applies to the coin full stop".

paulmc - 2018-11-06 11:41:00

Not sure I am in the correct place for some help or not if not can you please point me in it. Thanks

I have a 1918 Penny Australian, so far I have found there where some made in India and also some in Melbourne Unsure how to tell difference? Seems to have a smooth edge it needs cleaning but read in Mrs Google not to as I may do damage ? I have just dug it out of a garden one I have dug for many years It has raised semi imperfections not they are green in colour But other than that it is not horribly worn. Any help on cleaning and value please There seems to be conflicting prices and also how to tell where it was made, be it India or Au thanks

anne1955 - 2018-11-07 13:50:00

This site gives clear pics and approx values. I would imagine yours would be the lowest of value. A small "i" above date denotes calcutta, India as can be seen.
https://www.allcoinvalues.com/australian-coins-and-notes/191
8-australian-penny-value.html

wasgonna - 2018-11-07 14:47:00

Many thanks Looks like the 'i' is there so a soak in coke isn't going to effect it's lower value Thanks

anne1955 - 2018-11-07 15:47:00

anne1955 wrote:

Many thanks Looks like the 'i' is there so a soak in coke isn't going to effect it's lower value Thanks

If it has little value to collectors before a soak in soda, it will have none afterwards.

echoriath - 2018-11-07 21:56:00

anne1955 wrote:

Many thanks Looks like the 'i' is there so a soak in coke isn't going to effect it's lower value Thanks

Just drink the coke

gammoner - 2018-11-10 09:56:00

gammoner wrote:

Just drink the coke

After the soaking ?

funho1 - 2018-11-11 18:44:00

funho1 wrote:

After the soaking ?

Don't see why not if you add a good measure of Appletons Rum to the mix

gammoner - 2018-11-11 23:05:00

okay so noble are calling this coin frosty mint bloom uncirculated, but when I look at the photo I can see dark areas on KIng George's cheek, is this not a typical sign of wear or am I missing something?

http://www.noble.com.au/auctions/lot?id=400219

Edited by dtpapa at 7:58 pm, Tue 13 Nov

dtpapa - 2018-11-13 19:58:00

gammoner wrote:

Just drink the coke

if it does that to a coin just imagine what it is doing inside you -better to tip it down the drain!!

dtpapa - 2018-11-13 20:04:00

dtpapa wrote:

okay so noble are calling this coin frosty mint bloom uncirculated, but when I look at the photo I can see dark areas on KIng George's cheek, is this not a typical sign of wear or am I missing something?

http://www.noble.com.au/auctions/lot?id=400219

I'd say wear or scuff marks. There are some tiny dings in the field on the rev too.

translateltd - 2018-11-13 22:18:00

paulmc wrote:

I asked Trade Me "Does your policy on these coins only apply until Armistice day, Nov. 11th?" Their reply was "No Paul, this applies to the coin full stop".

I see a couple of groups of ten of these listed now - will be interesting to see what happens.

translateltd - 2018-11-20 07:10:00

How do I take photos of coins in plastic cases or sleeves.?
I got hints from here a while ago for coins just by themselves and they looked good. But I'm having no luck with above. I have it off flash, tried angling it, tried outside.
I get so much reflection that you just cant see the details, or its too dark

karmae - 2018-11-20 15:54:00

Hi Karmae,

What are you taking pictures with? If using a reasonably current smart phone or iPhone, you can usually zoom in pretty close, touch the screen until it focuses on the coin surface (rather than the face of the plastic case) then take the photo. With older more conventional cameras, you can achieve a similar thing by pressing the shutter button halfway when zoomed right in, then back out a bit with the zoom and take the photo.

Basically, it's about sort of tricking the camera into looking past the plastic. You have to effectively zoom in so that it is seeing only coin, then it hopefully focuses on that rather than the plastic.You're onto in that you don't want strong direct light or the flash, as they usually cause the camera to detect the plastic rather than the coin.

This was taken in a few moments with my iPhone. The light source is a lamp that's just off to my right a bit, and the camera is to the right of the coin slightly angled down towards it. I just moved around until the reflection is minimal, though there's still a little bit over the stars above Liberty's arm. I might have gotten better results if I took a little more time. This is in a cardboard flip rather than a more nuggety plastic case. If you want to photographs coins that are in cardboard flips, it's worth just taking them out to do the photo. If they're in slabs from a grading service, that's not such a hot idea.

https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/914409802.jpg

Edited by echoriath at 11:20 pm, Tue 20 Nov

echoriath - 2018-11-20 23:19:00

Thanks, camera (no smart ph yet) has 2 macro settings so kind of zoom, but tried that not really working. Your suggestion may work for the single ones, but I have a few with 6-7 coins in plastic proof slab, some coins in set are semi okay focus wise but rest are not. I will try with a lamp above.

karmae - 2018-11-21 08:20:00

Anyone experiencing a delay with unsold Products relisting? Three of mine that closed this morning haven't relisted, despite showing as Active on my Products list. Stock numbers are still positive, and my account still has funds, so neither of those can be the issue. Normally items relist within a couple of minutes but not this time.

translateltd - 2018-11-24 08:34:00

Got an answer - so I assume the closed items will all relist in due course:
https://www.trademe.co.nz/community/announcements/post/1705/
an-issue-with-my-products-and-tradevine

translateltd - 2018-11-24 14:18:00

translateltd wrote:

I see a couple of groups of ten of these listed now - will be interesting to see what happens.

Nothing happened. There are still bulk quantities of these coins being listed - up to 100 rolls!

paulmc - 2018-12-01 00:18:00

New to this but does anyone feel offended with all this people selling armistice coins when you were only allowed to buyone roll per customer from NZ post, But they seem to have heaps and at $27 a roll of twenty , They still have them for sale for $10 on NZpost /coins maybe buy more if these guys can sell them.

hank59 - 2018-12-02 18:05:00

hank59 wrote:

New to this but does anyone feel offended with all this people selling armistice coins when you were only allowed to buyone roll per customer from NZ post, But they seem to have heaps and at $27 a roll of twenty , They still have them for sale for $10 on NZpost /coins maybe buy more if these guys can sell them.

I was under the impression that the bulk sales weren't supposed to be happening this time around, especially after the complaints in 2015 that the coins weren't getting a chance to circulate precisely because of the bulk selling that was going on. I did think the limits were put in place this time to prevent that situation, but I guess people will find a way with sufficient determination.

translateltd - 2018-12-02 20:11:00

Watching the bidding on 1849027980 with interest. The letters B.I.R.M. on the reverse are a thinly disguised reference to Birmingham - not something you'd ever find on a gold guinea, just some of the brass copies ...

translateltd - 2018-12-03 20:16:00

translateltd wrote:

Watching the bidding on 1849027980 with interest. The letters B.I.R.M. on the reverse are a thinly disguised reference to Birmingham - not something you'd ever find on a gold guinea, just some of the brass copies ...

I see that you asked that question and a few others went unanswered by the seller. Obviously they 'missed' the questions........

chrisr5 - 2018-12-05 18:45:00