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THE NEW COIN CLUB

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Welcome to the Coin Club. We are an assortment of newbies and oldbies, amateurs and experts with questions and answers for oldbies and newbies, amateurs and experts in coin collecting, also known as numismatics. Whether you are just getting started, have been collecting for years or have simply found some old coins about the place that you’d like to sell, this is the place to ask your questions.

No one has all the answers, and you may get five differing answers to the same question, yet each may be right in a manner of speaking, especially if opinions are involved. Opinions often vary. If you receive no answer to your query within 48 hours, please ask again.

chefman1 - 2015-07-10 22:36:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-11 09:30:00
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Tui?

alpha111 - 2015-07-11 10:30:00
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"1934 Half Crown UNC cat val $950 Start price: $250.00 Listing #: 913215917 Buy Now: $300.00 1934 Half Crown UNC cat val $950
Bought of another trader who classed UNC cat value $950 this is the last time im selling it so cheep if it does not sell this time will put up to $400 so get your self a good deal while you can ."
Cheep? Top class grading.

alpha111 - 2015-07-11 10:37:00
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muzz8 wrote:

heres a bargain 915261683

The value is clearly in the unrecognisable ones.

translateltd - 2015-07-11 11:03:00
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cheep?

sound more like a squawk!!

dtpapa - 2015-07-11 11:21:00
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For a laugh check out the description of this 916084898

mudeki - 2015-07-11 12:26:00
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Hi all there seems to be alot of unc coins which are far from it, also as grading has changed, I did like it before when there was only 4 grades, poor, ave/fine, ef, UNC,notice no vf, now every coin for sale seems to be grade+.Think it was easyer for new collectors to work out grades for themselfs alot quicker.

35 - 2015-07-11 13:33:00
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jym - 2015-07-11 13:34:00
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mudeki wrote:

For a laugh check out the description of this 916084898

They neglected to mention that it is numismatic grade glue.

echoriath - 2015-07-11 14:01:00
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jym wrote:

Apart from the catalogue price indication, what is the difference between an uncirculated 50c coin and one taken from a set?

If I am correctly understanding your question, an uncirculated coin can actually be one that circulated, but minimally. Sets made by a mint are from coins that have not entered general circulation. I cannot speak to where in the production process they come from (I suspect it depends on the mint), but I can see a possibility of a coin in a set having a (slightly) harder life than one that makes it into circulation but is picked immediately by a collector and looked after. Normally, though, I would expect a coin out of a set to be in better nick that one that has reached a bank.

It's at times like this that the 70 point grading scale becomes especially relevant. The difference between UNC60 and UNC65 should be pretty obvious, though the steps in between start getting pretty subjective.

echoriath - 2015-07-11 14:07:00
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jym wrote:

Apart from the catalogue price indication, what is the difference between an uncirculated 50c coin and one taken from a set?

It depends on the years coins in 1971 and after 1980 were often minted at different mints for the circulating coins and for the sets, this caused differences in the design / dies used. I think its harder to find a true unc circulating variety coin than one cut out of a set.

Some comparisons are at the link below but later years I am hoping to find some damaged sets to cut open to get large photos.

http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/new-zealand-decimal/ci
rculating-vs-set-die-differences/

mudeki - 2015-07-11 14:32:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-11 16:41:00
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muzz8 wrote:

anyone got any numismatic grade glue remover for sale

I use my numismatically-rated angle-grinder disk to get the glue off. Keep it under 3000 RPMs.

echoriath - 2015-07-11 17:17:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-11 18:21:00
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jym wrote:

Apart from the catalogue price indication, what is the difference between an uncirculated 50c coin and one taken from a set?

I think we're one of the few countries (are there any others?) that get their "collector set" coins made at a different mint to the circulating coins most years. So they're basically different sub-types each year, with slight differences in design detail, style and positioning of letters and numbers, etc.
(Edit: I see mudeki has said essentially the same thing already - the paired images on the coinerrors page are a great reference.)

Edited by translateltd at 8:42 pm, Sat 11 Jul

translateltd - 2015-07-11 20:42:00
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jym - 2015-07-11 22:52:00
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I'm guessing it's a simple numbers game. Fewer ones made for the sets = higher price. The trick is being able to tell the difference.

echoriath - 2015-07-11 23:31:00
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jym wrote:

Thanks for the answers guys.
I was looking at the 2009 50c coins.
The catalogue has UNC circ coins at $3 and set UNC ones at $20.
So if both are UNC then why the difference.

Basically because they're two different coins with two different mintages, as above. I was looking at the pictures of the two different types of 2008 20c last night and the differences are quite major once you start looking - size of the scalloped indents, position of the letters in relation to them, position of designer's initials, position of the Queen's effigy in relation to the letters, etc. I notice there isn't a 50c picture up so I'll have a look at those now.

translateltd - 2015-07-12 11:50:00
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https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/396694588.jpg

Circulating 2009 50c at the top, "set" 50c at the bottom. Key differences are the position of the 2 below the Queen's neck, position of the initials IRB, serifs on the letters IRB on the set coin and none on the circulating issue. The 2 and the N of NEW have more pronounced serifs on the set coin, and the position of the Queen's chin in relation to the H is different. Probably more still for those better than me at "spot the difference" games!

translateltd - 2015-07-12 11:59:00
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jym - 2015-07-12 19:51:00
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Three-day bump.

translateltd - 2015-07-15 18:08:00
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915372571

Wow what is wrong with people. They will be very disappointed when they work out what grade this really is.

mudeki - 2015-07-16 23:40:00
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mudeki wrote:

915372571

Wow what is wrong with people. They will be very disappointed when they work out what grade this really is.

Maybe the US grading system has been extended to comprise 70 grades of Uncirculated now instead of just eleven.

translateltd - 2015-07-17 07:51:00
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translateltd wrote:

Maybe the US grading system has been extended to comprise 70 grades of Uncirculated now instead of just eleven.


Well in my NZ grading ,I would give it a F+ to a VF at a stretch.
Poor King only has half a cheek left lol

gammoner - 2015-07-17 11:19:00
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Nope, that's definitely the Kiwi grading system at its finest!! Clean it, polish it, sandpaper it, grind it, drill it, then call it stunning!! Buy it off ebay for 20 bucks, sell it to a tool with more money than brains for $300. That's the Anzac spirit in a nutshell!!

Edited by dtpapa at 4:49 pm, Fri 17 Jul

dtpapa - 2015-07-17 16:48:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-17 21:26:00
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Waitangi Crown
Hello Coin Clubbers. I have been getting a few coins, thinking of maybe a Waitangi Crown as long-term keeper, and saw this :
http://www.noble.com.au/auctions/lot/?id=337636
Which at the bottom says 'In a slab by PCGS as PR64.'
Your views of true value much appreciated.
TIA Peter

funho1 - 2015-07-18 07:24:00
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Hi Peter. I make no claim to expertise in this field. The real so called "experts" will no doubt give you their opinions in due course. Here is what I think.

Although grading is partly a subjective art, pcgs is widely regarded the most prestigious of the third part graders. A grade of PR64 is a good, but not a great grade. I would prefer at least a PR65 if I was purchasing this coin. Again it is very much subjective, but eye appeal is another important consideration when making a purchase. Indeed, I might even consider a PR64 over a PR65 if the PR64 was a real looker. Without seeing the coin in real life, it is difficult to make a judgment. The other consideration is price. If it's a good coin for the price or not. Then again an inferior coin, no matter how cheap, might not bring the pleasure and satisfaction you think it would. I don't see the pcgs cert # mentioned in the auction detail. You might want to ask them for that. You can then look the coin up on the pcgs site. It might have a different photo (although sometimes they don't include photos). You might also be able to research past auctions at which the coin might have been sold. Good luck!!

Edited by dtpapa at 7:58 am, Sat 18 Jul

dtpapa - 2015-07-18 07:57:00
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I have a bit of an issue with the wording "(...) toned over brilliant fields". That's as may be, but it's a bit hard seeing those brilliant fields under the toning. The ultimate decision is whether you're happy with the coin as it stands, with a secondary consideration being whether the next buyer will be happy with it when you decide to move it on. In line with what dtpapa says above, Bill Lampard always used to say "buy the best coin you can afford" - because you'll never be happy with it if you don't, and selling can be a problem later.

translateltd - 2015-07-18 08:27:00
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Meanwhile, thoughts on this one - 916561972? Another Shanghai special? The illustrations in Krause aren't great for comparison but the colour and detail on this one have me wondering.

translateltd - 2015-07-18 08:39:00
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Hi dtpaqpa & translateltd and many thanks for some great comments.
Does the slabbing addd value ? or anotherway, would removing from the slab make it worth less ?
And how does one remove from a slab ? would hate to use a Black&Decker .....

funho1 - 2015-07-18 09:45:00
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slab wouldn't add much value, if any. Can be a nuisance if you like to hold your coins in your sweaty hands. If it was a high grade(say PR66) it might be a different story. As long as you purchase from reputable source, as in this case, you should be okay for non-graded coins.

This from pcgs

http://www.pcgs.com/Pop/ValueView.aspx?s=534551

dtpapa - 2015-07-18 09:59:00
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If it's in a slab from a reputable TPG, as this one appears to be, and if you agree with their appraisal of it, it's probably worth leaving in the slab, both for protection and authentication/pedigree. Some US collectors (investors/speculators, perhaps?) make a game of "cracking" slabs to resubmit the coin in the hope of getting a better grade next time and thus improving their "investment" - I'm sure I've seen something on-line about how to break a slab open without trashing your treasure in the process and it will probably come up with a web search - but think long and hard before you do it.

translateltd - 2015-07-18 10:16:00
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Hi Guys do anyone know much about 1955 NZ threepence "broken nose" error coin thanks Colin.

35 - 2015-07-18 16:18:00
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35 wrote:

Hi Guys do anyone know much about 1955 NZ threepence "broken nose" error coin thanks Colin.

Sounds interesting - can you post a photo pse?

translateltd - 2015-07-18 16:18:00
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funho1 wrote:


Does the slabbing addd value ? or anotherway, would removing from the slab make it worth less ?
.....

Now you're just poking the bear.

echoriath - 2015-07-18 17:09:00
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Echoriath -- thanks for the thought. Hope I don't see the bear behind (pun intended)
It was a serious question, I fancy getting a Waitangi or two, but things in plastic tombs don't add to the potential excitement.
So let rip & give me whatever you want to growl ?

funho1 - 2015-07-18 17:30:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-18 18:11:00
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No worries, funho. I own no slabbed coins, and I don't have terribly strong opinions on the topic, in fact. Others do have strong opinions, probably much better informed than my own. I'm generally aware of the tendency of people to try and grade jump if they are not satisfied with the grade they get. In theory, this should be noticed by the grading agency if it is resubmitted to the same one, since they normally take photos of every coin. But they grade a LOT of coins.

There is a pretty indisputable point involved from an investment point of view, i.e., third party grading gives a (reasonably) objective statement of condition, which can be set against a list of values, theoretically giving stability to the market. If, on the other hand, you are really buying this for personal reasons, e.g., you like the coin, then value is secondary or tertiary. The importance of a coin being slabbed relates accordingly. In terms of collecting in the broadest sense, value is always secondary at best since collectors seek things they like rather than for monetary gain.

If the value IS a primary consideration, have facts and knowledge on your side. Slabbed coins do provide some assurance that a skilled individual has applied the appropriate grade, which gives a much higher degree of certainty for future resale.

echoriath - 2015-07-18 19:12:00
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muzz8 wrote:

i bought one recently on trademe-details are here
http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/new-zealand-pre-decima
l/threepence/

Wow, didn't know about that one before. Must check some '55 3ds to see if any turn up!

translateltd - 2015-07-18 19:42:00
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muzz8 wrote:

i bought one recently on trademe-details are here
http://www.coinerrors.co.nz/wordpress/new-zealand-pre-decima
l/threepence/

I have been meaning to update that photo after i sorted about 2000 1955 threepence's a few weeks ago and found a few but not as many as I expected to find. If only I could remember where I put them lol.

From memory there is also a number of die cracks on either side. Not always all of them but as the die gets worse all of these show

The First E of Queen to the rim and
From the H of Elizabeth to the rim.

Both Patu handles to the rim
From the N of New to rim

mudeki - 2015-07-18 21:26:00
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Just took some more photos but with my camera setup its a pain to get it really clear. If you hold the coin on an angle looking directly to the nose you wont see any marks or fine line but the rest of the coin appears to be fully struck

mudeki - 2015-07-18 23:11:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-19 09:30:00
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muzz8 - 2015-07-19 09:49:00
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Hmmm, just found a 2013 NZ dollar with a wart on the lower lip, some kind of indentations in the field beneath her chin, a bit of something off to the right of IRB, a die crack from the bottom of the effigy to the rim, a wart on her forehead with a die crack (a unicorn?), a die crack from her hair to the rim across the second "A" in "ZEALAND", and a crack on the reverse from the kiwi's beak to the rim. Picture to follow.

echoriath - 2015-07-19 12:34:00
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echoriath wrote:

Hmmm, just found a 2013 NZ dollar with a wart on the lower lip, some kind of indentations in the field beneath her chin, a bit of something off to the right of IRB, a die crack from the bottom of the effigy to the rim, a wart on her forehead with a die crack (a unicorn?), a die crack from her hair to the rim across the second "A" in "ZEALAND", and a crack on the reverse from the kiwi's beak to the rim. Picture to follow.

Like 2013/3 Type 2 here? http://wp.me/P4A88C-1T2

mudeki - 2015-07-19 13:55:00
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Probably more the Type 1. The wart on the lip is not terribly pronounced, but it's there, and I had not noticed the one on the cheek, nor the big ones on the back! Wow, that's quite a biggie down the kiwi's back! On the obverse, there's also that depression off her chin halfway from the wart on the lip to the one on the neck. Whatever's going on around the initials is only to the right of the initials.

echoriath - 2015-07-19 15:10:00
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... and I had not noticed the one on the cheek, nor the big [crack]s on the back!

echoriath - 2015-07-19 16:10:00
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::nudge::

echoriath - 2015-07-19 16:38:00
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