THE NEW COIN CLUB
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| 601 | Welcome to the Coin Club. We are an assortment of newbies, amateurs and experts with questions and answers for newbies, amateurs and experts in coin collecting, also known as numismatics. Whether you are just getting started, have been collecting for years or have simply found some old coins about the place that you’d like to sell, this is the place to ask your questions. No one has all the answers, and you may get five differing answers to the same question, yet each may be right in a manner of speaking, especially if opinions are involved. Opinions often vary. If you receive no answer to your query within 48 hours, please ask again. chefman1 - 2012-11-10 19:24:00 |
| 602 | cashintheattic wrote:
waiting for the next phone call...lol chefman1 - 2012-11-10 19:26:00 |
| 603 | chefman1 wrote:
Me? I didn't do nothing! chrisr5 - 2012-11-10 20:31:00 |
| 604 | This message was deleted. straponstan - 2012-11-10 22:57:00 |
| 605 | Hi straponstan - excuse me while I chuckle at that brilliant tradername - you're onto it as far as the coins go. I presume you wish to sell. In all likelihood your best return will be by listing here on TM by country. If it were me, I would only list up to ten coins in a lot from any given country back to, say, 1950. Actually, some of that is governed by condition and metal content. The main thing is you don't want to hide a real gem in a pile of rocks. Before 1950, I might go only in lots of five. For anything before 1900, I'd do them by ones and twos generally. Have a look at some of the different pix of coins and see how close you can get to the clearest photos that fill the available space, as opposed to standing a meter from the coin and taking the pic without zooming or anything. Either macro or digital macro is the best setting once you get used to either. In any case, sounds like an interesting group of coins, and you should get a pretty good result. Feel free to pop in here with questions as you go. If you post a pic of any coins you want to ask about before posting, this is a good spot to do it. Just upload the photo to TM, get the full screen image in front of you, then cut and paste the link to it here. Researching elsewhere can also give some idea of what you might get for a given coin, but you will find that value is generally a balance of rarity, condition and demand. And who turns up on the day. Good luck, echoriath - 2012-11-11 08:22:00 |
| 606 | thanks heaps echo.. i will start with the camera.. tomoro, when theres no sticky fingered children wanting to play with them. straponstan - 2012-11-11 10:31:00 |
| 607 | This message was deleted. donaldo - 2012-11-11 10:48:00 |
| 608 | Welcome to the coin club SOS. If I had to guess I'd be wondering if you'd had an amputation. You might not want to draw too much attention to your user name though because there is a fat, hairy biker and would be coin trader who's been known to adopt female personas in an effort to get the personal details of some in here. Given his proclivity for alternative ids of the female sort and professed homoerotic fantasies there are a few of us who are worried about his intentions! Good luck with your listings though! I might even put in a bid or 2......... chrisr5 - 2012-11-11 10:52:00 |
| 609 | Have just been given a set of NZ Decimal coins in a folder. tigger23 - 2012-11-11 11:56:00 |
| 610 | Have just been given a set of NZ Decimal coins in a folder. tigger23 - 2012-11-11 11:56:00 |
| 611 | tigger23 wrote:
10 dollars if you are lucky lester36 - 2012-11-11 13:28:00 |
| 612 | straponstan wrote:
No worries. Oh, and PLEASE resist any temptation to clean them in anything other than warm soapy water. There are ways to clean some coins without damaging them, but a lot of things that will make them shiny and "clean" (especially copper/bronze ones) can destroy a lot of their collecibility. echoriath - 2012-11-11 13:34:00 |
| 613 | straponstan wrote:
Seriously Trademe? What on earth was contentious in that post? chrisr5 - 2012-11-12 09:44:00 |
| 614 | Okay Im a newbie, I had a 1908 usa one cent, unfortunately since it hasnt got the letter S, it means it was minted in Philadelphia and not San Francisco. so it anit worth much. Do coins from the UK go more by the year, than the place they were minted, like the usa. Sorry for the newbie questions. brett21 - 2012-11-12 13:02:00 |
| 615 | New Zealand sixpence from 1934, its been used so average/good conditon, would it better to go to a coin dealer or try trade me. brett21 - 2012-11-12 13:05:00 |
| 616 | Hi Brett21 and welcome to the coin club. I would say the value of a coin goes by it's scarcity (or how uncommon it is) and it's condition. Most US coins are identified by a mintmark or lack of it. So scarcity can be related to which mint it was produced at. However even though it was minted in Philadelphia your cent may still have a reasonable value depending on it's condition. The catalogue value for a 1908 P 1 Cent in AU-50 is US$20. Most later British coins lack an identifiable mintmark so it has no feature in their value. Your NZ 1934 6 pence is only worth about $2 if it's in avg condition - you'd be better of selling it in a group. You could pop up a photo just for someone to tell you if it's in better condition though. chrisr5 - 2012-11-12 13:18:00 |
| 617 | Thanks Chris, that was very informative for this newbie. brett21 - 2012-11-12 13:44:00 |
| 618 | Anybody interested in discussing numismatics rather than how much money can be made flipping coins? Edited by lbillows at 5:14 pm, Mon 12 Nov lbillows - 2012-11-12 17:13:00 |
| 619 | lbillows wrote: lester36 - 2012-11-12 18:01:00 |
| 620 | lbillows wrote: chefman1 - 2012-11-12 18:27:00 |
| 621 | The member deleted this message. oldecurb - 2012-11-12 18:56:00 |
| 622 | This message was deleted. oldecurb - 2012-11-12 18:59:00 |
| 623 | oldecurb wrote:
Hahahah! At least you're honest! echoriath - 2012-11-12 19:51:00 |
| 624 | brett21 wrote:
We welcome all comers! As mentioned, condition is a crucial part of value. There are several scales for grading coins. A system popular in the US ranks them on a scale of 1 to 70, 70 being perfect looking, as if they were just made with absolutely no wear, nicks, dings or anything. A 1 is worn so smooth the date is perhaps not even readable and most of the details that make it a coin are barely visible. In one sense, my interest in numismatics also lines up with that idea of wondering where and to whom a given coin has circulated. It's all part of the curiosity that goes with the collecting. Having grown up on the East Coast of the US, coins from the San Francisco Mint were considered more desirable for the simple reason that we were closer to Philadelphia. As a function of policy and geography, we mostly got Philly Mint coins. I had family on the West Coast who never really got my interest in coins, and I struggled like mad to get them to pick up a few rolls of coins from the bank before coming east so I could fill gaps in my collection. It so happens that as a function of geography, we are actually closest to the San Fran Mint here in NZ. It also happens that more often than not it is the S or D (for Denver) mint coins that had lower production numbers or were for various reason harder to come by, though there are some notable exceptions where in certain years the Philly Mint version of a coin is worth heaps more than the D or S. The reasons are many and varied, and again, become part of the story that coins tell. Sometimes, there's little difference in value between P, D and S coins for a given year. (It should be noted that in terms of raw value based on condition, one actually hopes to find coins that have circulated least and have passed through as few hands as possible.) I've been passively chasing the back story on 1914-D Buffalo Nickel, one of the most valuable in the series even in the worst condition. I have a few theories.... As for British coins, I have to say I have gotten a much better sense of the start and end dates of the reigns of various sovereigns based on the coins of The Realm that I have acquired. I always emphasise to my son (who plans to majour in History) how coins tie into history, both in simple terms based on who's on them, and in more macroeconomic terms as concerns metal composition, mintage figures, who's effigies are on them, changing government policies on who can hold what, etc. echoriath - 2012-11-12 20:11:00 |
| 625 | Can anyone recommend someone in Auckland to take a 1915 gold half sovereign too to get it valued/graded? It looks in mint condition and would like to know. Thanks in advance. nelly76 - 2012-11-12 20:25:00 |
| 626 | Hi nelly, if you post a photo here, I suspect some kind soul would give some idea of its potential value. echoriath - 2012-11-12 20:29:00 |
| 627 | nelly76 wrote:
You would be looking at about $300 give or take 10-15% if it's tuly in excellent condition. You might get more if it is Perth mint - it would have a 'p' under the the dragon (a letter not a puddle ;-) ). Any of the coin dealers that come up on google under 'coin dealer auckland' will be able to value/grade. If you're looking at doing this for insurance/resale purposes they may charge. If you're looking to sell it to them you might not get offered that much....... Currently the scrap metal value for a half sovereign is about $250. If you want to sell on TM and get top dollar you need to be able to offer an accurate size and weight for your coin and not just show that you can google the statistics! chrisr5 - 2012-11-12 22:18:00 |
| 628 | i am sick of the few small bags of old decimal coins lying around - what do you recommend is the best way to sell these or pass these on... ?? bodnz - 2012-11-13 16:07:00 |
| 629 | i did list them - but now i am unsure should i hang on to them (for a decade or so ?) - what do you all (well some of you) recommend... ?? bodnz - 2012-11-13 16:18:00 |
| 630 | Does anybody have any special coins in their collection that hold sentimental value in addition to collector value? I don't, but I wish I did... lbillows - 2012-11-13 16:32:00 |
| 631 | bodnz wrote:
hi bodnz,are you talking about this auction you have [533098091- lucky dip] for the 5-10-20-50 cent coins....??? Edited by chefman1 at 4:48 pm, Tue 13 Nov chefman1 - 2012-11-13 16:45:00 |
| 632 | chefman1 wrote:
yeah - i hate selling things i dont know alot about - mind you i guess these are so recent they still seem so familiar - yet no use now as in not being able to spend or bank aye ?? bodnz - 2012-11-13 17:17:00 |
| 633 | lbillows wrote:
Dunno if it quite counts as sentimental value, but my step-mum allowed me to peruse a lot of silver quarters she had from the late 70s silver run-up. She got left holding the bag - literally. By the time I met her in the 80s, the price had cratered. Now as I replace the ones she loaned to my collection, I set hers aside to return to her. I'm glad to be able to do that, because I've essentially held them in trust, and now the value of silver has appreciated significantly. Also, her father had set aside a number of coins back in the day - just spare change in a tin but brand new at the time. When I first visited them, he allowed me to select a coin of my choosing. I selected a Walking Liberty that I would never sell. It happens to be UNC, but that's just luck - I did not have a coin book with me. I was going for book value, but had to guess as well as I could. I have to say, many of the really prized items I have have attained a sentimental value for me, and I would hesitate to part with certain ones of them. Drives the wife nuts because all she cares about is potential resale value. If I'm not selling them, she does not care about them. What about you, lbillows? echoriath - 2012-11-13 19:35:00 |
| 634 | lbillows wrote:
I have the 2010 uncirculated NZ set given to me by my wife 'from' my daughter as a father's day present. That holds sentimental value but not a lot of collector value. I would also agree with Tim that a lot of hard to come by coins I have acquired hold sentimental value and would be difficult to part with. chrisr5 - 2012-11-13 22:29:00 |
| 635 | I saw some coins of particular numismatic interest last night. The 4 (main?) varieties of the 1935 NZ 3 pence. These being the 'narrow date', the 'wide date', 'wide date with one die crack' and the 'wide date with 2 die cracks'. The latter being in EF/AUnc. chrisr5 - 2012-11-14 10:04:00 |
| 636 | I have a British one Penny from 1922. it says there are three types.. How do i find out which one it is, what do I have to look for on the coin? brett21 - 2012-11-14 14:48:00 |
| 637 | brett21 wrote:
Very good question. First off you can probably safely say you haven't got the specimen finish - there's only supposed to be 2 of them! Good luck! chrisr5 - 2012-11-14 20:35:00 |
| 638 | Thanks for the link. brett21 - 2012-11-14 23:25:00 |
| 639 | Hi everyone I have a 1931 Australian florin that weighs only 8 grams instead of the 11.31 grams it should. It's been in the family for ages so if it's counterfeit it wouldn't have been done in the past 50 years or so. The detail and the strike are very crude and feels like aluminium. Any idea where it might have come from? Play money perhaps? Edited by lbillows at 3:10 pm, Thu 15 Nov lbillows - 2012-11-15 15:09:00 |
| 640 | Hello friendly people in Coin Club land. lester36 - 2012-11-15 19:30:00 |
| 641 | Hi Ibillows, I gather there are a reasonable few fakes floating about, so yours is probably contemporary and collectible to someone interested in it. If its the same size as a florin it's probably overweight for aluminium. Have you tried a magnet? Strongly magnetic will be iron or steel. Not quite so strong will be nickel. Non magnetic to an ordinary ferro-magnet will possibly either be copper nickel or maybe lead. chrisr5 - 2012-11-15 19:50:00 |
| 642 | This message was deleted. oldecurb - 2012-11-15 19:57:00 |
| 643 | Hi Lester - nice coin - my punt at grading would be vf+/vf. You always get the breaks! I must also add the Tauranga coin club is viewed with some envy by the Auckland club on account of you getting better attendances! ETA - didn't see Ecurb had commented, so basically agree with him. Edited by chrisr5 at 8:09 pm, Thu 15 Nov chrisr5 - 2012-11-15 20:05:00 |
| 644 | i see there is a nice 1949 half/crown up for sale tonite,i wonder who chefman1 - 2012-11-15 20:45:00 |
| 645 | lester36 wrote:
v/fine+...nice coin you have lester36 Edited by chefman1 at 8:47 pm, Thu 15 Nov chefman1 - 2012-11-15 20:46:00 |
| 646 | Hi Ibillows There were some makers of Australian toys who made toy cash registers - notably Boomaroo. I have seen that they included paper & metal toy money. funho1 - 2012-11-15 20:58:00 |
| 647 | any-body seen this auction..[DOUBLE HEADED $2 coin] yet... chefman1 - 2012-11-15 21:17:00 |
| 648 | 48... chefman1 - 2012-11-15 21:17:00 |
| 649 | 49.... chefman1 - 2012-11-15 21:18:00 |
| 650 | post...650..half/hundy Edited by chefman1 at 9:19 pm, Thu 15 Nov chefman1 - 2012-11-15 21:18:00 |
